A December Stopover in Frankfurt (Germany): Christmas Market Edition
We flew Lufthansa direct from Raleigh-Durham airport to Frankfurt on our way to India and decided to turn it into a two-day stopover. Two days gave us the perfect taste of Frankfurt—enough time to see the highlights without feeling rushed. So glad we did—Frankfurt is way more charming than its reputation as a pass-through airport suggests.
Where We Stayed
The Hilton Frankfurt Airport was perfect. It's connected directly to Terminal 1 via skywalk—no shuttles, no going outside. After a long flight, we walked straight to our room in about ten minutes. There are pharmacies, several restaurants, and shops all around the hotel, all inside the airport. The rooms are quiet despite being at an airport, super clean, and comfortable. Getting into the city was easy too—just take the escalator down to the train station and hop on the S-Bahn. Highly recommend this hotel for layovers.
Walking Tour of Old Town
Main River runs through Frankfurt
Locks of love on the Eiserner Steg bridge
The Römerberg is the heart of Frankfurt—a gorgeous square with half-timbered houses and the medieval city hall. Most of it was rebuilt after WWII, but you'd never know. We also saw the Frankfurt Cathedral (the Dom), St. Paul's Church, and walked along the Main River. The Eiserner Steg bridge has great views of both the old town and the modern skyline—such a cool contrast.
Our guide pointed out the Fountain of Justice in the center of Römerberg. The old St. Nicholas Church has these beautiful bells that chime throughout the day. We peeked into some of the narrow alleyways and found cute little cafes tucked away. The whole area has this cozy, old-world feel that's perfect for wandering.
Christmas Market Magic
We spent one evening at Frankfurt's Christmas market, which dates back to 1393! It stretches across Römerberg with a huge tree, twinkling lights, and over 200 stalls. We warmed up with Glühwein—hot mulled wine that's essential for staying warm on a cold December night. The wine is served in cute ceramic mugs, and you pay a small deposit that you get back when you return the mug (or just keep it as a souvenir!).
Christmas Market
The market had everything—handmade ornaments, wooden toys, warm scarves, and so much food. We tried the waffles and crepes—warm and perfect for a cold evening. There's a vintage carousel in the square that's not just for kids. The smell of gingerbread and mulled wine was everywhere.
Pro tip: each year they release a collectible Glühwein mug, so keep yours as a souvenir. The atmosphere was festive without being overwhelming—locals mixed with tourists, Christmas music playing, kids running around excited. It really put us in the holiday spirit.
Where We Ate: Paulaner am Dom
One night, we stopped at Paulaner am Dom for dinner, a Bavarian restaurant right at the foot of the Frankfurt Cathedral. The location couldn't be better—you're sitting in the heart of the old town with views of the Dom.
We went all in on German food—schnitzel, bratwurst, sauerkraut, and of course fresh Paulaner beer on tap. Everything was hearty and delicious. The portions were generous, the prices reasonable, and the atmosphere was cozy with that classic Bavarian tavern vibe. If you're looking for a solid spot for traditional German fare after sightseeing, this is it. We also found the same restaurant next to our hotel in the airport.
Final Thoughts
Two days were just right. Frankfurt surprised us with its mix of old and new, great food (the schnitzel and apple wine!), and friendly people. If you're connecting through Frankfurt, stay a couple of nights and explore. You won't regret it.
Happy travels!